In my effort to promote the RC Paraplane hobby. I have put together the following information to show how my Sea Breeze Gondola is built. This page covers three models (.25 glow, .25 electric, 40 glow).  Most of the building steps are the same for them all. The only real difference in the glow versions is the size of some of the parts. Just build from the plans for the model your building using the steps listed below and you should have no problem completing a gondola that could last you a lifetime.
I test fly every 62" parachute I ship with the first gondola I built and it is over 17 years old now.
 
This page is in two parts.
 
Part 1 uses pictures and covers putting together the plan and bending the main frame as if you were building the .40 size glow powered version.
 
Part 2 uses video to show how each step is completed as if you were building the .25 electric version.
 

 
Sea Breeze Gondola Build
PART ONE
 
 
 
Here is a look at the plan cover page and how the .40 size
Sea Breeze Gondola should look when completed.
 

Building the Sea Breeze Gondola
 
 
Check the plan sheets before you tape them together.
Note: I have updated page 1 of the plans to include a image of the prop guard.
So, your plan page 1 will have a slightly different look then the one shown here.
 
Make sure the scale on the plan is close to 2".
If it is off a little that should be no problem.
 
Next cut page 1 on the dashed line as shown here.
 
Then place page 1 on top of page 2.
 
And tape as shown here.
 
 
Then place page 3 as shown here.
 
 
Then tape it in place as shown.
 
At this point you should have a full size Gondola plan.

 
Now we are ready to start building the gondola.
 
The first step is to sand all the wire so solder and paint will stick to it.
 
Lay the 5/32" wire on the plan and mark the top bend as shown here.
 
 
Then rotate the wire and place the mark at the top bend and mark the second bend.
 
Repeat this step as you mark each bend.
 
As you can see the marks are placed in the center of the line on the plan.
 
Work your way down to the last bend.
 
You should be close to the end of the wire when you get to the last bend on the plan.
 
Mark all the bends so they are easy to see.
 
 
Do Not cut the wire before you mark and bend the motor mount brace which will be cut from the end.
 
 
Here is a look at the wire I just marked along with the bender
I made from some scrap aluminum I had laying around.
 
 
Place the mark in the center of the pin it will be bent around.
 
 
Then place the bender over the wire and make the bend.
 
 
Do not over bend the joint.
 
 
It is better to put in more bend than to over bend.
 
 
DO NOT use heat to make the bends.
 
 
If you make a bender like I am using here. You should have no problem making the bends.
 
I started at the bottom and will work my way to the front wheel axle.
 
 
This bend will go around the pin and form the bottom of the frame.
 
 
Here you can see the bend as it is formed around the pin.
 
 
The bend is easy to make using the bender.
 
 
Here the bend is almost complete.
 
 
Here you can see the completed bend.
 
 
And here is a closer look at the bend. 
 
NOTE: If your bends are off a little. Don't worry. It should work just fine.
I have bent hundreds of frames and so it is easy for me to get the bends to match the plan.
 
I think by now you have the idea on how to put the plans together and bend the wire.
Be sure you use a bender and DO NOT USE HEAT to make the bends!
 
 
If you have any questions on bending the wire, Just ask. I am always willing to help when I can.

 
Sea Breeze Gondola Build
PART TWO
 
 
STEP 1
Prepping the rear axle.
 
 
STEP 2
Prepping the landing gear braces.
 
 
STEP 3
Putting together the landing gear.
 
 
STEP 4
Soldering information.
 
 
STEP 5
Soldering the landing gear braces.
 
 
STEP 6
Main gear gusset.
 
 
STEP 7
Soldering the main gear gusset.
 
 
STEP 8
Completing the main gear gusset.
 
 
STEP 9
Main frame lock.
(This joint must not fail)
 
 
 
STEP 10
Fly-bar mount.
 
 
STEP 11
Building the prop guard.
 
 
STEP 12
Prop guard test.
 
 
STEP 13
Main frame clean up.
 
 
STEP 14
Attaching the prop guard.
 
 
STEP 15
Soldering the prop guard.
 
 
STEP 16
Smoothing out the joints.
 
 
STEP 17
Overview on adding the built wood parts.
 
 
STEP 18
Epoxy the wood parts step 1.
 
 
STEP 19
Epoxy the wood parts step 2.
 
 
 
STEP 20
Epoxy the wood parts step 3.
Also shows the optional setup for glow power models.
 
 
STEP 21
Epoxy the wood parts step 4.
 
 
STEP 22
Epoxy the wood parts step 5.
 
 
 
STEP 23
Bending the battery holder.
 
 
STEP 24
Mounting the battery holder step 1.
 
 
STEP 25
Mounting the battery holder step 2.
 
 
STEP 26
Soldering the metal battery strap.
 
 
STEP 27
Mounting the metal battery strap step 1.
 
 
STEP 28
Mounting the metal battery strap step 1.
 
 
STEP 29
Building the fly-bar step 1.
 
 
STEP 30
Building the fly-bar step 2.
 
 
STEP 31
Building the fly-bar step 3.
 
 
STEP 32
Completing the fly-bar step 4.
 
STEP 33
Marking landing gear bends.
 
STEP 34
Bending landing gear.
 
STEP 35
Prepping for wheels.
 
STEP 36
Mounting rear wheels.
 
STEP 36
Mounting nose gear.
 
STEP 37
Soldering wheel collars. (Typical)
 
STEP 39
Wheel collar soldering detail.
 
STEP 40
When soldering is complete.
 
STEP 41
Steps not covered above. (Part 1)
STEP 42
Finishing points that were not covered above (Part 2)
 
 


Below are images of the completed gondola.
 
Mounting the prop and motor.
 
 
Mount steering servo with 2 layers of servo tape then add 1/16" wire strap.
(Note soldered wheel collars on the wire strap)
 
Make sure servo saver clears the motor box.
Note soldered wheel collar on steering linkage. Antenna tube mount shown in image on the right.
 
Mount the receiver on the rear of the motor box using servo tape and 1/16" wire strap covered with fuel tubing.
 
Speed controller is mounted to the inside of the motor box using servo tape.
 
 
Battery sits in a cage made of wire covered with fuel tubing.
Note also the brass strap mounted at the front of the battery plate.
 
Fly-bar mounted with brass swivels on each end.
Note soldered wheel collars.
 
Checking the CG.
The rear wheels should be on the table and the nose wheel should be 3/4" to 1 1/4" off the table when the gondola is lifted by the fly-bar.
 
 
Is your frame square?
This is a look at the .40 size gondola. All Sea Breeze gondolas should be checked in the same manner.

These test flight images were taken of the gondola and parachute after the gondola was completed.




* NEW Sea Breeze .40 Gondola Build Info *
 
 Here are images of a .40 size glow powerd gondola as it was completed. The images should be helpful if your building the Sea Breeze .40 size gondola. 
 
Here is a look at a .40 Gondola before and just after being painted.
 
Here is the Gondola before I mounted everything to it.
 
Here a look at the engine mount area and and again after the engine was mounted.
 
Then the battery cage was mounted.
 
Then the servos were mounted.
 
Then the receiver was mounted.
 
Then the Volt-watch was mounted and wired into the switch.
( I built this model and added the Volt-watch system)
 
Then the fuel tubing was added to the battery cage and the prop and spinner were mounted.
 
 
Here the 16 oz fuel tank was mounted.
 
Then the throttle linkage was installed. The servo saver was also mounted to the servo.
 
Then the fly-bar was mounted and the steering linkage was installed.
 
Here is a look at the now Ready To Fly Gondola.

 
Sea Breeze Gondola plan and parachute information can be found at www.seabreezeparachutes.com
 
Let me know if you have any questions.
I am always glad to help when I can.
 
http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/gondolabuild/rtfa.jpg